Watch Buying Guide

A Guide to Watches

Watches, the ultimate timekeeping companions, effortlessly blend style and functionality. With their intricate designs and precise movements, watches have become more than just instruments for telling time. They have evolved into fashion statements, symbols of status, and reliable tools for everyday life. In this Guide to Watches, we'll explore the world of watches, highlighting their versatility, craftsmanship, and the unique ways they enhance our lives.

For those seeking to make an impression with their next timepiece, our selection of luxury brands is the perfect choice. However, if you prioritize functionality without sacrificing style, we have plenty of options to meet your needs. To start your search, it's important to identify your specific requirements and consider the occasions you'll be wearing the watch for. Additionally, establishing a budget that aligns with your financial preferences is essential. With these key factors in mind, you're prepared to embark on your watch-buying journey, accompanied by our expert guide.

At Van Cott Jewelers we'll help you navigate the world of timepieces and find the perfect watch for you. The newest modern technology has revolutionized watch designs, offering an impressive range of functional and eye-catching styles. From watches featuring multiple time zones to those tracking the phases of the moon, the options are endless. So, let's dive in and discover the watch that suits your style and needs effortlessly.

Watch Anatomy
Shapes
Materials
Movement Types

Understanding the anatomy of luxury brand watches at Van Cott Jewelers allows enthusiasts and buyers to appreciate the craftsmanship, design, and technical mastery behind these timepieces. Whether it's the intricate movement, exquisite dial detailing, or choice of materials, each component contributes to the allure and value of a luxury watch. Explore the world of luxury brand watch anatomy and uncover the extraordinary craftsmanship that defines these coveted timepieces.

Movement

The watch movement, also called a caliber, is the internal mechanism responsible for driving the timekeeping functions of a watch. It serves as the engine that powers the watch, allowing it to accurately measure and display time.

Comprising components like gears, springs, levers, and oscillating weights, the movement operates in a precise and coordinated manner. These components work together to regulate the release of energy from the watch's power source, typically a mainspring, and distribute it throughout the movement. This ensures the consistent and reliable operation of the watch.

Crown

The crown of a watch is a small, button-like protrusion typically located on the side of the watch case. It serves as a multifunctional control for various operations of the watch. The crown is used primarily for setting the time, but it may also have additional functions depending on the watch's features and complications.

Pusher

A watch pusher is a small button-like component found on the side of a watch case. Unlike the crown, which is primarily used for time setting, the pusher is designed to perform additional functions or activate specific features of the watch. The number, placement, and design of pushers can vary depending on the watch's complications and functionalities.

Common uses of pushers include controlling chronograph functions, adjusting multiple time zones, or activating other complications. Pushers provide enhanced functionality and versatility to the watch, allowing users to interact with and customize various features beyond basic timekeeping.

Lugs

Lugs are the protruding extensions or arms located on either side of a watch case. They serve as attachment points for the watch strap or bracelet. Lugs play a crucial role in securing the strap or bracelet to the watch case, ensuring that it remains firmly in place during wear. They come in various shapes, sizes, and designs, adding to the overall aesthetic appeal of the watch. Lugs also provide a means for easily changing the strap or bracelet, allowing wearers to personalize their timepiece and adapt it to different occasions or styles.

Rotor

The rotor on a watch is a disc-shaped component in an automatic (self-winding) mechanical movement. It is designed to rotate freely as the wearer moves their wrist. The rotor's rotation generates energy that winds the watch's mainspring, providing power to keep the watch running. This eliminates the need for manual winding. The rotor is typically visible through the watch's case back and can feature decorative engravings or designs. Its function is essential in maintaining the automatic winding mechanism and ensuring the watch remains powered as long as it is worn and in motion.

Dial

The dial is the face of a watch, typically located beneath the crystal. It displays the hour markers, numerals, indices, and other markings that indicate the time. The dial is an essential component that provides readability and serves as a canvas for various design elements, such as color, texture, and complications.

Hands

The hands are the movable indicators on the dial that point to the current time. They usually include an hour hand, a minute hand, and a seconds hand. The hands are crucial for time reading and are designed in various shapes and styles to enhance legibility and aesthetic appeal.

Hour Marker

Hour markers on a watch are markings or numerals on the dial that indicate the hours. They provide a reference for reading the time, typically in the form of numerals, lines, or dots. Hour markers are designed to be easily readable and contribute to the overall style of the watch.

Subdial

A subdial is a smaller dial within the main dial of a watch. It provides additional information or functions beyond basic timekeeping, such as chronographs, date displays, or moon phase indicators. Subdials enhance the watch's functionality and aesthetics, and their design and arrangement vary depending on the watch's model and complications.

Bezel

In horology, the bezel of a watch surrounds the dial or face and serves functional and aesthetic purposes. It is typically made of materials like metal, ceramic, or precious stones.

During underwater activities, a dive watch actively enhances functionality using its bezel. The bezel rotates unidirectionally and is marked with minute indicators, enabling divers to accurately track elapsed time. Divers align the zero marker with the minute hand at the dive's beginning, effectively measuring the dive duration using the reliable and straightforward bezel tool.

Case

A watch case serves to protect the internal components of a wristwatch, while also contributing to its style and aesthetics. It shields the watch mechanism from dust, moisture, and impacts, while providing a housing for the dial and hands. Additionally, the case incorporates features like crystal, crown, and bezel for functionality and visual appeal.

Exhibition Caseback

An exhibition caseback is a transparent or partially transparent back cover of a watch that allows a view of the movement inside. It showcases the intricate craftsmanship and inner workings of the watch's movement, offering enthusiasts and wearers an opportunity to admire the mechanical intricacies and artistry involved. It is commonly found in luxury watches and provides a captivating experience.

Crystals

The crystal in timepieces acts as a protective cover, shielding delicate components from dust, moisture, and damage. It provides transparency for clear visibility of the dial and hands. The crystal's scratch resistance preserves the timepiece's appearance. Its design enhances aesthetics, while anti-reflective coatings reduce glare. For water-resistant watches, the crystal forms a seal, maintaining water resistance. Overall, the crystal contributes to functionality, durability, and visual appeal.

Strap

The purpose of a watch strap is to securely fasten the watch to the wearer's wrist. It provides both comfort and functionality, allowing the watch to be comfortably worn and easily adjusted for a snug fit. The strap keeps the watch in place during daily activities, ensuring that it remains conveniently accessible for timekeeping. Additionally, the watch strap plays a significant role in the overall aesthetic appeal of the timepiece, enhancing its style and complementing the wearer's personal taste. Watch straps come in various materials, such as leather, metal, rubber, or fabric, offering a range of options to suit different preferences and occasions.

Round:

A round watch case embodies a classic and enduring design with its circular shape. It exudes a sense of timelessness and elegance, making it a popular choice among watch enthusiasts. The case is crafted in various materials, offering a range of styles and durability. The rounded silhouette seamlessly showcases the dial at its center, creating a harmonious and balanced aesthetic. Whether in a minimalist or ornate design, a round watch case epitomizes sophistication and versatility.

Rectangle:

A rectangle watch case showcases a sleek and contemporary design. With its distinct straight sides and right angles, it offers a modern and minimalist appeal. The rectangular shape provides a unique and stylish alternative to the traditional round case. It allows for a clear distinction between the watch face and the surrounding case, creating a sharp and defined look. The dial is typically centered within the rectangle, highlighting its geometric symmetry. A rectangular watch case is often favored for its contemporary and avant-garde aesthetic, making it a statement piece for those seeking a bold and edgy style.

Tank:

A tank watch case is inspired by the iconic design of the legendary Cartier Tank timepiece. It features a rectangular shape with softened corners, resembling the silhouette of a military tank. The tank case represents a harmonious blend of strength and elegance. The elongated shape of the case gives it a refined and sophisticated look, making it a classic choice for both men's and women's watches.

The tank case often incorporates a combination of polished and brushed surfaces, lending a luxurious touch to the overall design. The dial is typically positioned within the center of the case, complementing the clean lines and proportions. The tank case is known for its versatility, as it effortlessly transitions from formal to casual occasions. It is a symbol of timeless style and sophistication, appealing to those who appreciate a blend of classic and contemporary aesthetics.

Square:

A square watch case boasts a bold and modern design with its angular shape and clean lines. It offers a sleek and compact profile, making it a stylish choice for those seeking a contemporary timepiece. The dial is typically centered within the square case, emphasizing its geometric symmetry. Available in various materials and finishes, the square case adds a touch of modern sophistication to any outfit.

Oval:

An oval watch case embodies elegance and grace with its elongated and curved shape. It offers a softer and more feminine look compared to other case shapes. The dial is seamlessly integrated within the gentle curves, creating a balanced and refined aesthetic. Available in different sizes and materials, the oval case adds a touch of timeless sophistication to any style.

Carre:

A carre watch case, also known as a square or cushion case, is a unique and distinctive design that combines elements of both square and round shapes. It features a slightly softened square shape with curved edges, resembling a cushion. The carre case offers a blend of classic and contemporary aesthetics, making it a stylish choice for watch enthusiasts.

Carage:

The Carage watch case shape is a unique variation of the traditional oval shape. It features an oval that has been rotated ninety degrees, resulting in a horizontal orientation instead of the typical vertical alignment. This distinctive design is an interesting departure from the more common round watch case shape, contributing to its enduring popularity.

By deviating from the standard vertical orientation, it brings a sense of innovation and uniqueness to the watch's overall appearance. The elongated width of the case provides a broader canvas for dial and complication arrangements, allowing for creative and captivating watch designs.

Tonneau:

The Tonneau case shape is a classic and distinctive design often seen in luxury watches. Characterized by its curved, elongated shape reminiscent of a barrel or a rounded rectangle, the Tonneau case adds a touch of elegance and uniqueness to a timepiece. This shape offers a harmonious blend of curves and straight edges, creating a visually striking silhouette on the wrist.

The Tonneau case shape not only showcases the watch's individuality but also provides a comfortable fit, conforming to the natural contours of the wrist. Its graceful and sophisticated appearance makes it a favored choice among watch enthusiasts seeking a timepiece with a distinct and refined aesthetic.`

Asymmetrical:

The asymmetrical case shape on a watch offers a unique and captivating aesthetic. With its unconventional proportions and irregular angles, it breaks away from traditional symmetrical designs. This bold and modern style creates a sense of individuality and intrigue, making the watch stand out on the wrist. The asymmetrical shape allows for creative design elements, resulting in a distinctive timepiece that appeals to those seeking a non-conventional look.

The choice of case material significantly impacts the character, quality, and value of a watch. From durable stainless steel to luxurious gold, a wide range of materials is used in watchmaking. Each material has its own unique properties, aesthetics, and suitability for different watch styles and occasions.

Continue reading to discover the case materials utilized in crafting luxury timepieces.

Platinum

While platinum is a precious metal highly valued for its rarity and beauty, it is not commonly used in its pure form to make timepieces. This is mainly due to its characteristics, such as its softness and high melting point, which make it challenging to work with and shape into intricate watch components.

However, platinum is occasionally used in watchmaking, but typically as an alloy with other metals. The most common alloy used is called "950 platinum," which consists of 95% platinum and 5% other metals, often including iridium or ruthenium. This alloy provides the necessary hardness and durability while still retaining platinum's distinctive appearance.

Platinum timepieces are sought after for their luxurious and prestigious nature. They exhibit a lustrous, silvery-white color and have a unique weight and feel on the wrist. The rarity and exclusivity of platinum in watchmaking contribute to the high value and collectability of platinum timepieces.

Gold + Gold Plate

Gold is a precious metal highly valued for its beauty and rarity. In watchmaking, gold is often used to create watch cases, bracelets, crowns, and other decorative elements. The use of gold adds a touch of luxury and elegance to timepieces. Different gold alloys, such as yellow gold, white gold, and rose gold, are utilized to create a variety of colors and styles. Gold is known for its lustrous appearance, durability, and malleability, allowing intricate designs and fine detailing. Gold timepieces are highly sought after for their prestige, craftsmanship, and long-lasting value.

While gold plating is a process where a thin layer of gold is deposited onto a base metal or substrate, typically using electroplating techniques. In watchmaking, gold plating is commonly used to enhance the aesthetic appeal of watch cases, bezels, buckles, and other components. It provides the look and feel of solid gold while offering a more cost-effective alternative.

Gold-plated watches can be found in various styles and designs, offering versatility and affordability to watch enthusiasts. The thickness and quality of the gold plating can vary, affecting the durability and longevity of the gold finish. However, with proper care, gold-plated watches can maintain their beauty and shine for an extended period.

Stainless steel

Stainless steel is a widely used metal in watchmaking due to its exceptional qualities. It is known for its durability, strength, and resistance to corrosion, making it an ideal material for crafting watch cases, bracelets, and other components. Stainless steel watches are highly versatile, complementing various styles and occasions with their sleek and modern appearance. Additionally, stainless steel is hypoallergenic, making it suitable for individuals with sensitive skin. With its affordability and ability to withstand everyday wear, stainless steel continues to be a popular choice in the world of watchmaking.

Alternative metals

Alternative metals have revolutionized the world of watchmaking, offering a fresh and innovative approach to traditional timepiece construction. These non-traditional materials, such as ceramic, cobalt, titanium, and tungsten carbide, have gained significant popularity in the horological realm due to their exceptional properties and unique aesthetic appeal. From lightweight durability to superior scratch resistance, alternative metals bring a new level of functionality and style to modern watches. Using alternative metals in watchmaking showcases the industry's commitment to pushing boundaries and embracing cutting-edge materials to create timepieces that not only captivate with their craftsmanship but also embody the spirit of innovation.

Ceramic: A remarkable alternative material used in the field of watchmaking is widely known as ceramic. It is a non-metallic compound, typically composed of zirconium oxide or titanium carbide, that offers a range of desirable qualities. Watches crafted with ceramic are highly valued for their exceptional scratch resistance, making them extremely durable and resistant to everyday wear and tear. Additionally, ceramic is renowned for its lightweight nature, providing a comfortable and effortless wearing experience. These timepieces also exhibit hypoallergenic properties, making them suitable for those with sensitive skin. Furthermore, ceramic is highly resistant to fading, corrosion, and discoloration, ensuring that the watch maintains its pristine appearance over time. With its remarkable combination of durability, comfort, and aesthetic appeal, ceramic has become a sought-after material choice for discerning watch enthusiasts.
Titanium: Titanium takes center stage as an exceptional alternative material actively employed in watchmaking. Its remarkable strength and durability make it an ideal choice for crafting robust watch cases and components. Titanium actively withstands the rigors of everyday wear, exhibiting excellent resistance to impact and scratches. Moreover, titanium's lightweight nature actively enhances the wearer's comfort, making it a preferred option for those seeking a lightweight timepiece. Additionally, titanium actively resists corrosion, ensuring that watches made with this material can endure challenging environments without compromising their appearance. Titanium actively demonstrates its remarkable contributions of strength, durability, lightweight properties, and corrosion resistance, elevating the overall quality of modern watches.
PVD: PVD stands for Physical Vapor Deposition. It is a widely used surface coating technique in various industries, including watchmaking. PVD coating involves the deposition of a thin film of material onto a surface through a process of vaporization and condensation. During the PVD process, the material is vaporized in a vacuum chamber, and then it condenses onto the desired object, forming a thin, durable coating. This technique allows for the application of various coatings, such as metallic finishes or protective layers, onto watch cases, bezels, or bracelets. PVD coatings not only enhance the aesthetics of watches but also provide increased durability, scratch resistance, and protection against wear and corrosion.

Strap Materials

Exploring watch accessories reveals a diverse array of strap materials. Among these materials, leather, silicone, and nylon—often recognized as NATO straps—stand out for their ability to cater to a spectrum of styles, ranging from formal to sporty. Moreover, these materials redefine the standards of comfort and flexibility, distinguishing themselves from the traditional confines of metal bracelets.

Leather: A leather watch strap is a wristband made from high-quality leather that is designed to attach to a watch case. It serves as a comfortable and stylish way to secure a wristwatch to the wearer's wrist. Leather watch straps come in various colors, textures, and styles, adding a touch of elegance and sophistication to any timepiece. Their versatility makes them suitable for both casual and formal occasions, and their durability ensures a long-lasting accessory that ages gracefully with time. Overall, leather watch straps are a classic and timeless choice that enhances the overall appearance and wearing experience of a wristwatch.
Silicone: A silicone material creates a watch strap that is flexible and durable. It is designed to securely fasten a watch to the wearer's wrist. Silicone watch straps are known for their lightweight, comfortable, and water-resistant properties, making them ideal for active lifestyles and sports enthusiasts. They are available in a wide range of colors and designs, offering a contemporary and modern look to the timepiece. Silicone straps are also easy to clean and maintain, making them a practical choice for everyday wear.
Nylon: This watch strap material provides several benefits. Its durability, lightweight nature, and water-resistant properties are well-known. Nylon straps also offer versatility, making them suitable for casual and sporty looks. Moreover, they provide comfort during wear and can be effortlessly adjusted to achieve a snug fit on the wrist.
Nylon, often identified as NATO, comprises tightly woven synthetic fibers that guarantee strength and durability. Its distinct design, featuring multiple pass-throughs, improves attachment security, rendering it a dependable option for enhancing both style and practicality in watch accessories.

Crystal Materials

Three crystal materials form the essence of watchmaking as each material is carefully chosen for its distinct attributes as they enhance both the visual appeal and durability of timepieces. From traditional options like mineral glass to cutting-edge sapphire crystals, the selection of crystal material adds a layer of sophistication to horological creations, reflecting both the watchmaker's craftsmanship and the wearer's unique style. These crystals combine precision engineering with timeless design, embodying the art of watchmaking's innovation and tradition.

Synthetic Sapphire Crystals: Synthetic sapphire is a highly durable and scratch-resistant material. It is second only to diamonds in terms of hardness on the Mohs scale. Synthetic sapphire crystals provide excellent clarity and transparency, allowing for a clear view of the watch dial. They are commonly used in high-end and luxury watches due to their premium quality and resistance to scratches.
Mineral Glass Crystals: Mineral glass crystals are made from tempered glass that has been treated to increase its strength and resistance to scratches. While not as scratch-resistant as synthetic sapphire, mineral glass crystals offer good durability and are less expensive. They provide adequate protection for the watch dial and are commonly used in a wide range of watches, including both mid-range and budget-friendly models.
Acrylic: As an alternative to traditional crystals, acrylic is a lightweight and impact-resistant material used in watches. It offers good clarity and provides protection, transparency, and some scratch resistance. Acrylic crystals are often found in vintage and retro-style watches, lending a nostalgic appeal. They can be shaped and polished to complement the watch's design. While not as scratch-resistant as other materials, acrylic crystals offer advantages such as impact resistance and the ability to easily polish out minor scratches.

Both synthetic sapphire and mineral glass crystals have their advantages and are widely used in watchmaking, depending on the desired price point, durability, and aesthetic preferences of the watch manufacturer and wearer.

Watch movements are crucial for timekeeping accuracy, functionality, and aesthetics. They reflect craftsmanship, tradition, and innovation, with different types catering to diverse preferences and lifestyles. From the timeless artistry of mechanical movements to the low maintenance of quartz and solar-powered options, each movement adds a unique touch to a watch. Whether admired for their intricate inner workings or sought after by collectors for their investment value, watch movements are more than just functional components – they represent a blend of technical expertise and personal expression.

Six Types of Watch Movements:

Automatic Movement: Winds itself through wrist motion, no regular manual winding needed.
Mechanical Movement: Time-tested, intricate gears and springs, requires manual winding.
Quartz Movement: Battery-powered, accurate, low maintenance.
Kinetic Movement: Self-winding quartz, uses wearer's motion, no frequent battery replacements.
Solar Movement: Powered by light, eco-friendly, long-lasting.
Spring Drive Movement: Innovative hybrid, precise timekeeping, mesmerizing sweeping motion.

Watch Anatomy